Serhii Kovalov does not like sushi. Neither sushi chef in his restaurant in East of Ukraine.
But when customers began to ask, Mr. Kovalov sailed both enemies and ordinary problems in the supply chain to get fresh fish for Philadelphia Rolls in his first-line city Sloviansk.
Now, as Russian forces have come closer and life becomes more bleak, many Slovisk residents weigh if they flee. Not Mr. Kovalov. He is determined to continue to serve sushi to soldiers and civilians seeking comfort, support or taste something special after more than three years of war.
« I know I need here, » said Mr. Kovalov, 30, making a gesture at the restaurant and the city from outside, who has been on Russia’s crossed hair for some time. « So I stay. »
Sushi has been popularly wild In Ukraine and for the people of Slovisk, this treatment provides such a necessary sense of normality.
When Sloviansk came in attack In February 2022, when the large -scale invasion of Russia began, sushi was not even in the menu of Mr. Kovalov’s restaurant, Slavnyi Horod or the « glorious city ».
His was the only restaurant in the city that remained open in the first days of the war, and suppliers would not be delivered.
« So we started building completely new logistics routes, » said Kovalov. Companys moved to Central and Western Ukraine, establishing new vendor relationships. To recover the goods through the first active line at Sloviansk, Mr. Kovalov sometimes led the same journey.
When people flee, restaurant staff decreased from 35 to seven years old and became a « family », Kovalov said.
Without water or electricity, meals are cooked outside. Finally, the restaurant bought a generator and drilling a well, with Mr. Kovalov with the intention of keeping their doors open.
Even after a missile destroyed his apartment, Mr. Kovalov headed for the restaurant, with a commotion.
« It was probably the hardest day, having to meet -as you walk to work. I had to decide quickly: to leave or stay -and run the team through it, » he said. « I went in with a smile and said, » It’s OK
In the midst of all this difficulty, why would you introduce sushi, which requires special storage and cooling, in the menu?
« It started with demand, » he said simply, drawing the business school title. « There were no sushi restaurants in the city and the guests began to ask. »
« Whether I like it or not, it doesn’t matter, » he insisted.
Today, he has members in Kyiv who inspect and select « very fresh » raw fish, which are then sinking and sent into refrigerated containers for the eight -hour trip to Sloviansk.
The road weaves through Kharkiv, then Izium, cities that broken buildings tell the history of Russian bombing, occupation and bitter liberation fights. Passes a snow covered with snow Once filled with pits of mass Of the victims of the invasion and is close enough to occupy the territory to collect Russian stations on the radio.
From Izium, it is about 40 minutes on the road and Donetsk, the region that houses Slovisk. Russian forces have captured a large part of Donetsk and aims to seize it.
Fish trucks enter Sloviansk on the north edge of the city, where a salty lake at better times attracted tourists looking for SPA treatments. Many of the spa buildings have been reduced to the rubble, and the soldiers are grinding in the ruins.
The anti-tanks barriers to the city center, as the one-storey brick houses give way to the apartment blocks, some disfigured from the attacks.
Despite the scars, Sloviansk is full. Honk cars, soldiers understand that groceries and children make a wave in the park’s ducks.
But the pressure is being mounted from strong fighting nearby. Russian forces are pressing to capture Chasiv Yar, a city 30 miles away. If you do, it could help erase the way to take Kramatorsk, putting the neighboring neighborhoods on the line line, the residents fear.
Zoya Trubytsyna, 68, said that her suitcase was already full.
« The first line is approaching, » he said as he walked at work. « If something happens to Kramatorsk, we will all go out. »
Life is more difficult, he said, with power cuts and explosions almost at night.
But Mr. Kovalov still manages to keep his restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
While he shaving a coffee and talked with servers, a crowd in the morning filled the seats. No one stopped eating when an air warning disappeared.
Hand -written blue -decorated blue -decorated bags aligned behind the cashier when the lunch rush began about an hour later.
A long kitchen counter had hot food, salads and sweets. Sushi station sat at the end, with photos of Maki and Tempura hung on top.
A soldier added a philadelphic roll to his stained tray, blood sausage and lasagna.
« Honestly, the sushi here is not so tasty, » said the 33 -year -old soldier, who happens with the « siesta » call sign, said after polishing his dishes. But « it’s a way to feel something familiar, like being at home. »
As a civilian, Siesta said, he would go to sushi with friends in Kyiv. But with its machining battalion defending the nearby city of Lyman, food options are basic. He arrived at Sloviansk for « that little soy sauce, » he said, it was a rare gift.
Slavnyi Horod is no longer the only sushi place in the city; There are several. Three blocks of distance is « Big Roll », which closed for months after the large -scale invasion. From the reopening, the business has been unstable, said that its owner, Nataliia Gordienko, who now has only a short -term fish supply.
« We don’t know what’s going to happen afterwards, » he said while salmon boxing. « What is the storage point if the power is cut? »
People are also afraid of Russian strikes, they added, ordering « quickly, quickly » when they arrive at the starting start.
Of 21 rolls offered at Mr. Kovalov’s restaurant, Roll Philadelphia (with salmon cheese and cream) is the most popular, according to Sushi master Dmytro. He seems puzzled by his popularity, « does not really exist in nature », but he has never been a sushi fan.
« Raw fish always raises suspicion, » he said, smiling.
However, Dmytro, who requested that only his name be used for security reasons, find the rewarding work and see YouTube videos to learn new techniques. But he is not sure he will remain with sushi forever.
)At this point, I don’t feel like planning anything, « he said as a waitress whisper that he was waiting for an order. » There is a war in our country and it is difficult to know what will take tomorrow or the next day. «
His head, Mr. Kovalov, is not immune to uncertainty. He is aware that the first line of Donetsk is under pressure, saying: « We are afraid every day. »
For now, however, he said, leaving it is not an option.
« Elsewhere it doesn’t make sense, » he said. « I have already found my purpose right here. »
Oleksandr Chubko Contributed reports.
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